AKWAYA Pearl Grading Methodology v1.0

Written by: AKWAYA Pearl Jewelry Team
Reviewed by: AKWAYA for consistency with current product terminology, published product specifications and the GIA 7 Pearl Value Factors framework
Version: 1.0
Effective / Updated:

This is AKWAYA’s seller-specific retail grading methodology. It is not a GIA laboratory grade and it is not a universal industry scale. Legacy AKWAYA listings are being reconciled to this methodology; until reconciliation is complete, read the listed grade together with the item-specific luster, surface, shape, nacre, color and matching details.

AKWAYA grades cultured pearls by combining type-specific thresholds with the seven quality factors used in the GIA pearl classification framework: size, shape, color, luster, surface, nacre and matching. Letter grades are used as a retail shorthand, but the underlying factors control the evaluation.

Core principles

  1. Grades are seller-specific. AAA or AAAA from one seller is not automatically equivalent to the same letters from another seller.
  2. Pearl type comes first. Akoya, Freshwater, Tahitian and South Sea pearls are not collapsed into one universal letter ladder.
  3. Luster is a primary gate. Strong surface cleanliness cannot compensate for weak luster.
  4. Nacre and durability are gates, not bonus points. A pearl with unacceptable nacre or durability concerns cannot receive a high grade.
  5. Shape is judged against the stated shape. A fine baroque or drop pearl is not downgraded simply because it is not round.
  6. Size and color are disclosed separately. Larger size or a desirable color can affect rarity and value, but does not automatically raise the quality grade.
  7. Matching applies to multi-pearl jewelry. Necklaces, bracelets, earrings and sets are evaluated for visual consistency appropriate to the design.

The seven pearl quality factors

Factor AKWAYA evaluation
Size Measured in millimeters. Size affects rarity and visual presence but does not by itself raise the letter grade.
Shape Round, near-round, oval, drop, button, baroque, circled or another stated form. Conformity is judged relative to the stated shape.
Color Body color plus overtone or orient where visible. Color is disclosed separately from the quality grade.
Luster Brightness and sharpness of reflections. AKWAYA uses Excellent, Very High / Very Good, High / Good, Fair and Poor descriptors as appropriate to pearl type.
Surface Amount, severity, depth and placement of natural surface characteristics. Deep pits, cracks, peeling or durability-related defects weigh more heavily than shallow pinpoints.
Nacre Evaluated for appropriate thickness, continuity, appearance and durability for the pearl type. Thin, chalky or visibly compromised nacre limits the grade.
Matching For multiple pearls: consistency of size, shape, color, overtone, luster and surface, taking intentional graduated or multicolor designs into account.

Minimum-gate grading method

AKWAYA does not calculate a simple weighted average such as “35% luster + 30% surface.” A pearl or finished piece must meet the minimum requirements for the stated grade across the critical factors. For example, a pearl with an exceptionally clean surface but only fair luster cannot receive a top grade.

Surface-clean percentages below are practical visual estimates of the visible surface under normal inspection conditions; they are not microscopic measurements.

Akoya cultured pearl scale

AKWAYA uses A → AA → AA+ → AAA for ordinary Akoya retail grading. Certified Hanadama is treated as a separate laboratory-supported designation rather than as an AKWAYA-created grade above AAA.

Grade Luster Surface Shape Nacre Matching
AAA Very High to Excellent; reflections bright and sharp Approximately 95%+ visually clean; only very minor characteristics Round; minimal deviation Very Good to Excellent; no obvious thin-nacre or chalky appearance Excellent
AA+ High to Very High; bright reflections with slightly softer edges Approximately 90–95% visually clean Round to near-round Good to Very Good Very Good to Excellent
AA Good to High Approximately 80–90% visually clean Round to near-round Good Good to Very Good
A Fair to Good Approximately 60–80% visually clean Near-round / off-round where disclosed Acceptable Fair to Good

Certified Hanadama: AKWAYA will use this term only when a recognized third-party pearl laboratory report accompanies the item and the listing identifies the certification. AKWAYA does not self-award Hanadama status.

Freshwater cultured pearl scale

AKWAYA uses A → AA → AAA → AAAA for Freshwater cultured pearls.

Grade Luster Surface Shape Nacre Matching
AAAA Very High to Excellent; strong, crisp reflection for the type Approximately 95%+ visually clean Excellent conformity to stated shape; round grade requires a strongly round appearance Excellent for the pearl type; tissue-nucleated pearls are solid nacre Excellent
AAA High to Very High Approximately 90–95% visually clean Very good conformity to stated shape Good to Excellent Very Good to Excellent
AA Good to High Approximately 80–90% visually clean Good conformity; some natural variation allowed Good Good
A Fair to Good Approximately 60–80% visually clean Noticeable natural variation may be present Acceptable Fair to Good

Tahitian cultured pearl scale

AKWAYA uses A → AA → AAA → AAAA for Tahitian cultured pearls. Dark body color, green, blue, aubergine or peacock-like overtone is described separately and does not by itself raise the grade.

Grade Luster Surface Shape Nacre Matching
AAAA Very High to Excellent Approximately 95%+ visually clean on the principal visible surface; only very minor characteristics Excellent conformity to the stated shape Very Good to Excellent Excellent
AAA High to Very High Approximately 85–90%+ visually clean; minor characteristics permitted Very good conformity to stated shape Good to Very Good Very Good to Excellent
AA Good to High Approximately 70–85% visually clean Good conformity; some natural variation Good Good
A Fair to Good Approximately 50–70% visually clean; characteristics may be readily visible Noticeable variation appropriate to stated form Acceptable Fair to Good

South Sea cultured pearl scale

AKWAYA uses A → AA → AAA → AAAA for White, Silver and Golden South Sea cultured pearls. South Sea luster can be softer and more satiny than Akoya luster, so it is judged relative to South Sea pearls rather than against an Akoya mirror-reflection standard.

Grade Luster Surface Shape Nacre Matching
AAAA Very High to Excellent for South Sea; strong, attractive satiny or reflective character Approximately 95%+ visually clean on the principal visible surface Excellent conformity to stated shape Very Good to Excellent Excellent
AAA High to Very High Approximately 85–90%+ visually clean Very good conformity to stated shape Good to Very Good Very Good to Excellent
AA Good to High Approximately 70–85% visually clean Good conformity; some natural variation Good Good
A Fair to Good Approximately 50–70% visually clean Noticeable variation appropriate to stated form Acceptable Fair to Good

How AKWAYA inspects a pearl or finished piece

  1. Identify and disclose the pearl family: Akoya, Freshwater, Tahitian or South Sea cultured pearl, plus treatment or origin information when reliably available.
  2. Evaluate overall appearance under neutral, diffused lighting: luster and matching are judged before focusing on isolated surface marks.
  3. Rotate the pearl: inspect the visible surface for the number, depth, location and severity of natural characteristics.
  4. Check durability gates: reject or cap the grade for significant cracks, peeling, chalkiness, visible nucleus or other nacre-related concerns.
  5. Judge shape against the stated form: round against roundness; drop against symmetry; baroque against the quality and balance of the intended organic form.
  6. Evaluate matching for multiple pearls: size, shape, color, overtone, luster and surface are compared across the piece.

Rules for earrings, pendants, strands and sets

Earrings, pendants and rings: the principal visible face and sides must meet the listed grade. A very minor characteristic positioned on the back or close to the drill or setting can be acceptable if it is not normally visible and does not affect durability.

Necklaces and bracelets: the piece is graded as a group. As an AKWAYA internal consistency rule, approximately 90% or more of the pearls should meet the listed grade, any remainder should be no more than one grade lower, and no pearl should create an obvious visual outlier. Matching must independently meet the listed grade.

Jewelry sets: earrings, pendant and/or strand components are checked for harmonious color, luster, shape and scale unless the design intentionally uses contrast.

How AKWAYA presents grades on product pages

Where practical, an AKWAYA listing should present the seller grade together with the underlying attributes:

  • Pearl type
  • Seller grade
  • Size
  • Color and overtone where applicable
  • Shape
  • Luster
  • Surface
  • Nacre or nacre-quality information where material to the pearl type
  • Matching for multiple pearls
  • Treatment disclosure where applicable

The preferred wording is “AKWAYA Seller Grade: AAA” rather than implying that the letter grade is a GIA laboratory grade.

Legacy listing reconciliation

AKWAYA has sold pearl jewelry under historical supplier and seller grading labels. Beginning with Methodology v1.0, active legacy listings are being reconciled against this published framework. During the transition, the item-specific luster, surface, shape, color and matching descriptions are the most useful details to compare. If a historical grade conflicts with those details, AKWAYA will correct the listing rather than force the factors to fit the old label.

For a consumer-focused explanation of letter grades, see AAA vs AAAA Pearl Grades Explained. For a broader introduction, see the Pearl Grading Guide.

Sources and reference framework

AKWAYA’s methodology uses GIA’s seven-factor vocabulary as the gemological framework while defining its own retail thresholds by pearl type. GIA does not define AKWAYA’s A/AA/AAA/AAAA thresholds.